Lebanon
“The Middle East’s Hidden Gem”
June 2023
Lebanon is a country that I have been wanting to visit for a long time, partly because it completes the set of Middle East countries I have already toured, but primarily because it endorses my predilection as a country replete with a fantastic history, magnificent architectural monuments and a world class cuisine. Lebanon is a repository for Phoenician relics, Roman ruins and Crusader castles, this mezze of attractions all await exploration on this trip. Additionally, as is de rigueur with other countries in the region it is a target rich environment for photography and the people are incredibly friendly. Lebanon’s hedonistic days of wealth and glamour – it’s capital Beirut was at one time dubbed the Paris of the Middle East – are well and truly in the past, its more modern history is that of civil war, governmental corruption and financial instability.
Lebanon as an independent state is a recent creation, but its territory has been populated since the dawn of time and it can trace its history back some 7,000 years. Its chronology is a litany of wave after wave of foreign invasion and occupation. Lebanon is located within the Fertile Crescent where one of the world’s oldest civilisations has been documented - the Sumerians were the earliest recorded inhabitants of the region - dating to around 5000 BC. These initial settlers have been credited with the invention of the wheel and the oldest known form of writing, cuneiform script.
The seafaring Phoenicians were the first people to permanently put down settlements in Lebanon around 2500 BC, establishing maritime entrepots in Tyre, Byblos and Sidon. The Phoenicians business acumen enabled them to expand their maritime trading activities from the Levant to Spain all across the Mediterranean basin. Although Lebanon would be occupied by various external forces, the Phoenicians as exponents of maritime endeavour would continue to dominate trade for centuries, founding trading colonies on Malta and Cyprus, and Carthage in modern-day Tunisia in 814 BC.
Bursting out from the plains of Anatolia circa 1600 BC, the truculent Hyksos dominated the region until the ingress of the Egyptians in about 1200 BC, who proceeded to hold sway over the province for almost four hundred years. The year 842 BC heralded the arrival of the Assyrians, they were swiftly superseded by the Persians under Cyrus the Great, who swept across the region in 539 BC.
The world’s greatest conqueror, the Macedonian general Alexander the Great, brought Lebanon into his ever- expanding domain following his crushing defeat of the Persians at the Battle of Issus in 333 BC. Alexander’s untimely death in 332 BC resulted in his vast empire being apportioned amongst his top generals, Seleucus ultimately gaining control of Lebanon; his descendants would maintain domination there until the arrival of the Romans in 64 BC, who would maintain governance over the province for the next six hundred years.
Lebanon – A Brief History
The year 395 CE saw the splitting of the Roman Empire, Lebanon falling within the sphere of the eastern territory, known as the Byzantine Empire. Internal disharmony and repeated incursions by eastern invaders drastically weakened the atrophic Byzantine edifice, and in 636 CE at the Battle of Yarmuk it fell prey to the Arab armies that rampaged across the entire Middle East, bringing with them the new faith of Islam.
The first two centuries of Muslim rule saw a flowering of cultural and architectural activity, but internal dynastic conflict left the country wide open to the advance of the Christian Crusaders in 1095, who would embroil Lebanon and the entire Levant in religious conflict that would endure for the next 200 years.
Emerging from northwest Anatolia, the Ottomans would rise to rule an empire spanning three continents, their arrival in Lebanon in 1516 began an occupation that would perdure for the next 400 years. Ottoman rule in Lebanon terminated with the end of the First World War in 1918, when having aligned itself with the losing Central Powers, its empire was carved up between the victorious Allies. The Sykes-Picot Agreement drafted by the Allies mandated control of Lebanon to France as part of the spoils of victory. French hegemony over Lebanon would last until November 1941, when Lebanese nationalist politicians formally declared independence.
Lebanon’s subsequent history following independence is fraught with wars, including several conflicts with neighbouring Israel, but most notably a tragic and bloody civil war that decimated the country between 1975 and 1990 and cost the lives of an estimated 200,000 Lebanese.
Currently Lebanon remains a country in political and economic turmoil, overrun with voluminous numbers of Palestinian and Syrian refugees as a result of its close neighbours ongoing machinations, whilst militarily being dominated by the bellicose Iranian proxy force of Hezbollah.
The Journey
This fascinating peregrination begins with a tour of Beirut, Lebanon’s capital city. For decades Beirut was touristically a no-man’s land, now mainly restored the city is an eclectic mix of modern tower blocks and old buildings, many of the older structures are still dilapidated and empty, sadly in need of voluminous sympathetic restoration. Beirut was largely rebuilt after the civil war (1975-1980), the onset of peace fuelling an inexorable drive to rebuild the city. In many areas though it still looks like a ghost town, especially the government district, replete with ubiquitous concrete barriers, bullet ridden buildings, roads blocked off, soldiers on guard, no traffic and no people apart from our group.
The handsomely proportioned neo- Egyptian style National Museum is a repository of interesting artifacts encompassing Lebanon’s history from the Bronze Age through to the Ottoman period. Rare Phoenician sarcophagi and exquisite Roman mosaics are sympathetically displayed alongside a bas-relief of the Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses II – just a few examples of the multitude of the museums recherche exhibits.
Beirut’s history has bequeathed it a plethora of churches and mosques, the highlight being the Mohammad Al Amin Mosque with its minarets surging skywards to an impressive height of 65 metres. Completed in 2006, its design is evocative of the Ottoman architectural style - lending it a striking resemblance to the Blue Mosque in Istanbul - the ornate interior can accommodate 3,700 worshippers.
Allo Beirut is a museum and cultural centre portraying the history of Beirut, its leitmotiv biases particular emphasis on the Lebanese Civil War period. The building and its contents are a juxtaposition of the bullet ridden and partly destroyed external structure, and the partially modernised interior with its agglomeration of historic and modern exhibits.
The Beirut Dome, or the blob, earned this epithet due to its distinctive shape. Dating from the mid-1960’s this sadly neglected passe structure was designed as a multi-purpose complex, comprising a cinema and what was once the Middle East’s largest shopping mall. Today this identikit icon of modernist architecture endures, slowly crumbling away awaiting restoration or demolition, its future hanging precariously in the balance.
Beirut’s Corniche is a very fashionable boulevard lined with new high -rise towers, swanky shops and a vibrant coffee culture. It is here locals’ promenade in their Sunday best whilst the city’s well-to-do parade up and down in their specious new cars.
Electricity in Beirut is sporadic, the government supplies it for a few hours a day, consequently many people have through necessity installed their own generators. Streets are festooned with cables as people endeavour to obtain electricity by fair or foul means.
Lebanon’s economy, broken as it is with rampant inflation, is based on the service industries – banking, insurance and tourism – as the country has no natural resources. The country’s agricultural production consists mainly of bananas, citrus fruits, avocados and olives. The population of Lebanon is approximately 6 million, including 500,000 displaced Palestinians and 1.25 million Syrian refugees. The French influence, a legacy from its mandatory days is ubiquitous here from the road names, the cafes, the use of the French language and the general signage.
Leaving Beirut and driving along the coast road we cross the Blue Line - this is the border where the Israeli occupation of south Lebanon finished in 2000 - the road here is heavily guarded and fortified with concrete barriers and maned by soldiers.
The coastal city of Tyre boasts not one but two ancient Roman archaeological sites. The sprawling UNESCO World Heritage Site of Al Bass is quite spectacular, with an impressive 2nd century monumental triumphal arch built by the Roman emperor Hadrian, a beautiful colonnaded road, an impressive aqueduct which would have been a marvel of engineering in its day, and a massive hippodrome for chariot racing that could accommodate 30,000 spectators.
Nearby the Al Mina complex is atmospherically located on a scenic shoreline setting, comprising a 170 -metre -long colonnaded street with a mosaic pavement, extensive remains of the 2nd century Roman baths, and an extremely unusual gem, an eye-catching 4th century square wrestling arena that could accommodate 2,000 spectators.
The next stop further south along the coast is the city of Sidon, a busy seaside metropolis, where remnants of its ancient past can be found at every turn. A walk through the narrow labyrinthine streets of the Souk reveals a living museum of traditional artisans and merchants plying their trade as cobblers, furniture-makers and metalworkers, practicing their craft as they have done for generations. The sights and smells of the Souk are an intoxicating blend, quite simply an assault on the senses.
Sidon’s supreme tourist attraction is the 13th century Crusader Sea Castle, which was built on the foundations of a much earlier Phoenician temple. The current imposing picturesque ruin, in its original incarnation was built on a small island, today it is connected to the mainland by an 80-metre-long causeway. Its defensive purpose is axiomatic, in its day this significant structure was the ultimate exemplar of the architecture of power. Today its arresting antiquity makes it a photographic draw, ultimately though it stands as the embodiment of the Crusaders phyrric victory against the incumbent Arab forces.
The Soap Museum showcases Sidon’s tradition of soap manufacture that traces its history back to the 17th century, when the city was an entrepôt for exports to France. Housed in a beautifully renovated 16th century stone building, the museum exhibits comprise a confection of demonstrations of how traditional olive oil soaps were manufactured in the past. The modern-day production of this product is now pretty much intrinsically confined to the tourist market.
Driving up into the mountains, the road zig-zags through a verdant tree covered landscape, before arriving at Deir Al Qamar, the epitome of a picture postcard town. Here the legacy of the towns medieval architecture is wonderfully preserved - many of the towns splendidly large villas are now second homes for wealthy Beirutees.
Progressing further up into the mountains on winding roads amid beautiful scenery, the area is carpeted in florid yellow Broome and pink Valerian. This morning’s destination is the spectacular 19th century Beiteddine Palace complex, the design of which is an intricate pot-pourri of Italian Baroque architecture and Arabian styles, symbolising the power and wealth of its creators. Delightful architectural features include vast courtyards and ornate fountains, geometric arcades, rooms with carved and painted cedar wood embellished with Arab calligraphy, inlaid marble and fine mosaics – the aesthetic magnificence of this complex is an indubitable photographic delight.
Located at an altitude of 1750 metres, the Chauf Biosphere Cedar Reserve is home to the world’s oldest Cedar of Lebanon tree, this totem symbol of the Lebanese state is estimated to be over 3,000 years old. This UNESCO protected site contains more than 20 different species of trees, 250 species of birds, 500 plant varieties; numerous types of amphibians and reptiles also inhabit this delicate ecosystem.
Driving through the Bekaa Valley the next stop on this wonderful tour is the family run St Thomas Winery. Here there is the opportunity to become versed in the production of Lebanon’s only indigenous white wine, and of course to indulge in sampling the various wines produced in the facility.
The small anachronistic mountain village of Mtein – home to around 6,000 people – is a prime paradigm of how a typical Lebanese village would have looked two or three hundred years ago. Many sympathetically preserved old palaces and other dwellings – in an elegant mix of Arabic and Baroque styles - survive from the different stylistic periods. The bijou main square with its architectural treasures offers visitors commercial and cultural activities; an Arak factory, an art gallery and a winery are just some of the enterprises that flourish here. Driving down from the mountains there are spectacular views all the way with picture postcard villages scattered across the hillsides.
The ancient port city of Byblos is redolent with history and is Lebanon’s premier tourist attraction, being voted the Arab world’s best tourist city in 2013. Incorporating an archaeological site, a Crusader castle, a busy market, many restaurants and a fantastic beach, Byblos offers the visitor an incredible sightseeing experience.
The imposing behemoth 12th century Crusader castle measures 50 metres by 45 metres, it has fortified walls built from indigenous limestone and the remains of former Roman structures, the walls are punctuated by five towers and surrounded by a 10-metre-wide dry moat. The castle’s monolithic presence stands sentinel over Byblos’s vast archaeological site, which contains ruins in various states of decay dating as far back as the Bronze Age. Amongst the many highlights, the 3rd century BC Phoenician ramparts, a 2nd century BC royal necropolis and a 3rd century AD Roman theatre are some of the preeminent attractions here.
Lebanon is the most religiously tolerant of the Arab countries, it is home to a diversity of ethnicities, languages, religions and cultures. The country has over 1,100 private schools where many well-to-do parents send their children, the state schools having acquired a reputation for sub -standard academic achievement.
The journey towards the Qadisha Valley is a spectacular drive on a constantly ascending road with zig-zag hairpin bends accompanied by stunning scenery. The tops of the mountains were still covered with snow at this time of year, in the winter this region is a ski resort, the infrastructure was built by the French in the 1930’s.
The overnight stay in the St Anthony’s Monastery was something quite special and unique on this trip. Located on the mountain side with amazing views across the valley, this was a quiet and reflective setting, a complete antithesis after the hustle and bustle of the churning vortex that was Byblos. Dating its origins back to the 12th century, this beautifully renovated monastery is home today to only six monks, it offers simply furnished accommodation and meals to tourists and pilgrims alike. The monastery features a notable church, accommodation for nuns and monks, and an expansive cave known as the Grotto of St Anthony.
After a nice breakfast at the monastery, it is out for a walk in the adjacent valley following dirt paths and surrounded by attractive flora, waterfalls, oak trees and fruits trees. The walk facilitates amazing views back across the valley to fully appreciate the exceptional location of the monastery, which is spectacularly cut into the rock face.
Leaving the Qadisha Valley and travelling back towards the Mediterranean coast, the town of Batroun is the next stop on this wonderful adventure. One of the world’s oldest settlements, Batroun can trace its history back some 5,000 years. Best known for its ancient Phoenician ramparts, Ottoman architecture, elegant churches and sleepy cobblestone streets, Batroun is rapidly becoming a Mediterranean tourist hot spot, additionally also a lavish playground for wealthy international A-listers.
Heading back towards Beirut on the final leg of this tremendous journey, there is one final treat in store, a visit to the Jeitta Caves, one of Lebanon’s most prestigious tourist attractions. This karstic limestone landscape was fashioned by geology, time and water, resulting in a stunning array of stalactite and stalagmite rock formations. Walking through the caves there is the opportunity to appreciate this impressive feat of nature where it takes at least 100 years for 1cm of new rock to form. Eerily peaceful and beautifully illuminated chambers contain an array of bizarre rock formations, including the world’s longest stalactite measuring 8.2 metres.
Back in Beirut there is the opportunity for a final group farewell meal before boarding the flight back home.
An Overview
This was a sensational trip to a country that has so much to offer the adventurous visitor, in terms of historic cities, archaeological sites, great weather, incredibly friendly locals and an amazing cuisine. History oozes from every crevice in Lebanon – the flood tide of numerous foreign invaders down the years have left a rich cultural footprint - making this pint- sized country an absolute pleasure to visit from an educational, aesthetic and photographic perspective.
The paucity of other tourists encountered on this journey is a sad indicator of Lebanon’s image as seen from the outside, but does not comport with that experienced on the ground. It is just so despairing that Lebanon’s more recent history – that of wars and economic and political misery - has brought the country virtually to its knees, making a visit here truly for only the most hardy and circumspect of travellers.